The camp was built and is owned as a joint enterprise between the local San and a white couple living in Maun. The San are one of fourteen extant ancestral clusters from which all modern humans are derived. The very large main tent houses the dining room and a commons room that opens on one side to the grassland and river. The individual tents rather than dome, were in the more traditional safari style –but ah, indeed, still with those refreshing bucket showers. The water had to be heated and brought to our tents. At night it was pleasant to listen to the hippos bellow, the lions roar, and the wild dogs yip. The animals were free to enter the camp were they so inclined. An elephant appeared outside Laura, Julia and Alex’s tent one night.
On arrival, we were the only guests in the camp, and the staff gave us a rousing traditional welcome of song and dance that they were clearly enjoying as much as we. Our guide/driver was named Face. He was an encyclopedia of knowledge, and a driver, over much tougher terrain, that would put some of the Indianapolis Speedway’s drivers to shame. Dining was at a long table adjoining the commons room. On our second day in camp an owner and his wife, and a couple who were friends from Durbin, arrived –interesting to talk to. They, Face, and we dined together. There was a no-charge serve yourself open bar in the commons room: good wines, beer, and that universal lubricant in southern parts of Africa, gin.